I have no spark at the plug had the coil checked and it showed out of spec so it was replaced. The engine still wont fire and there is not spark at the plug
Start from the spark plug boot and work your way back,check to make sure the boot is not corroded inside and then check to make sure the wire isnt breaking down anywhere
The first thing that I would check is the kill switch. Next would be the ignition switch. When you are checking for spark, are you grounding the plug against the engine? I will make a bet that your coil was not the culprit It sounds like something is grounding out.Ken
I am having the same issue with an 87 350dx fourtrax. Been tracking down voltage from the magneto through the regulator, to the diode pack. At this point voltage going to the diode pack none coming out to high ignition coil. I did have spark for about 30seconds, then none. Stator output voltage mathces my Honda 300. So, down to get a manual tomorrow and track down the voltage. My first suspect(hopefully) is the kill switch or a bad wire. I am pretty good with electronics, so I should be able to track mine down, and I will try to post to see if it is a similar resolve to yours. There sure alot of flipping modules on these machines.
with the 350 it will mess with you, still most common is a bad kill switch or cdi, but the fuel pump (if bad) can mess with stuff to kill the fire. a saftey thing incase of a roll over. just more things to check.
The fuel pump seems to kick in and pump in fuel. I will be double checking that one also, thanks for the tip. I have a feeling it is in the switch. I monitor the voltage at the coil input leads and wiggled the kill switch and would intermittently see voltage when moving from off to on and back really fast. Static position, absolutely no voltage. Then it got dark and I got tired, so will pick back up there later in the am. Not sure if the CLYMER manuals will have all the voltages I need, but we will see. Not sure why they just didnt put a gravity feed system on this.
i have deleted a lot of kill switches (seldom used anyway). on yours i think the wires have to be connected if it's the foreman, but if it's the fourtrax i think you can just cut the wire. they changed the wiring between years and i guess you could say model. they kept the fuel tank as low as possible on them because of the weight of the machine, trying to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.
Ok, here is what I found on mine. Right forward side near the CDI and fuel tank gauge, on the frame member, two wires had rubbed through. One of them is the black/white that goes to the kill switch to ground out, the other, I think was the black/yellow. They were touching the frame. Ran the thing for about 45 mins straight after that, no electrical issues. Ordered a replacement CDI just in case that short caused any strain on cdi output amplifiers.
Carb is dirty, looks like the pilot venturi is plugged inside, explains the rough idle, not to mention the bad gas. Will flush gas, replace carb and see how much better it runs. I just picked this up in a package deal with a 95 Fourtrax that had no rear axle, but ran pretty good. Anyone need parts from that? I need fenders, carb and racks/bumpers for the 87 and this one should be good to go. I would be willing to trade the 300 motor towards the parts I need.
I think my clutches are out on my 1994 honda fourtrax 300. But I am concerned about the assembly...does anyone have a service manual for download?
-Matt
